HOW TO WINTERTIZE YOUR BOAT
There’s a good
reason many animals hibernate during the winter. Preparing for long periods
of inactivity and seeking protection against extreme climatic conditions
are necessary steps for survival. It’s no different when it comes
to your boat and motor. Proper “winterization” is a must for
protecting your craft, and ensuring that it’s in ship-shape condition
when spring rolls around. Here are some valuable tips for safeguarding
your valuable recreational asset during the “off season.”
Fill ‘Er Up
Be sure to
fill your boat’s fuel tank to capacity (allowing just a little bit
of room for expansion) and add stabilizer, prior to stowing it away for
the winter. Failing to do so will allow air into the tank, which can condense
on the sides as the temperature changes causing corrosion and clogging
over time. Turn off all fuel valves, and use duct tape to seal off any
through-hull exhaust ports. This will also help prevent potentially harmful
internal condensation. In addition to these steps, remember to replace
your boat’s fuel filter and water separator.
Protect Your Engine
Oil tends
to settle on the bottom of the engine block when a boat is not being used,
exposing the pistons and valves to air, humidity and other corrosive materials.
To guard against this situation, remove the spark plugs and spray ”fogging
oil” inside the carburetor and down the spark plug holes. Then replace
the plugs without reconnecting the wires. This will provide a long-lasting
protective coating for these essential engine parts.
It’s also important
to replace your engine’s old gear oil with fresh oil. Dispose of
any used oil at an authorized recycling center. The lower unit gear case
lubricant on outboards and inboard/outdrive engines should also be flushed
and changed. This will eliminate water from the system and provide better
overall protection for key internal parts. Also replace oil filters on
inboard and outdrive engines.
Use the Right AntiFreeze
If your engine
uses coolant, drain the existing fluid from the engine block and manifolds
and replace with a non-toxic, propylene glycol base antifreeze. Despite
pressure from the EPA and other environmental organizations, many antifreeze
products still feature an ethylene glycol base, which is known to release
toxins into the water. Not only is the propylene glycol variety better
for the environment, most manufacturers say this type of antifreeze is
better for your engine as well.
Remove Your Battery, Electronics, and Safety Devices
If you
are planning on storing your boat out of the water, disconnect your the
battery and store it at home for easier maintenance and better protection
against theft. Removing your battery is not recommended, however, if your
boat will be remaining in the water during the winter period. Boats left
in the water should have the battery onboard and functioning so the bilge
pump will continue to function if needed. If you will be taking your battery
off the boat, make sure it is fully charged prior to stowing it away.
Be sure to maintain the charge throughout the storage period (to avoid
freezing), and replenish the water level periodically. It’s also
wise to remove all of your sensitive and valuable marine electronics from
the boat for the winter, and to store this equipment in a safe place at
home. This will help prevent theft and possible damage caused by shifts
in temperature and humidity. Winterization also presents a perfect opportunity
to remove items like dock lines, floatation devices, flares, fire extinguishers
from the boat for inspection and possible replacement.
Check Your Prop
Take this opportunity
to check your boat’s propeller and hub. Your prop blades may have
become bent or nicked over the course of the boating season, which can
diminish overall performance. The hub may also be have sustained extensive
wear and may even be close to being stripped. If this kind of damage has
occurred, you should replace the propeller and make any necessary repairs
during the winterization process. This way, you won’t have to worry
about these things come springtime.
Clean, Clean, Clean Your Boat
Before putting your boat to bed for the winter, be sure to give it
a good cleaning inside and out. If you store your boat with dirt, scum,
barnacles and the like on the exterior, these impurities will be even
harder to remove in the spring. Once the exterior of your boat is sparkly
clean, apply a quality polish to create a protective barrier against dirt
and dust. When cleaning the interior, don’t forget the teak, vinyl
and carpet. These are areas where dirt, combined with moisture can breed
mildew, especially in the dark environment of a covered boat with little
or no ventilation. To help keep your boat free of mildew, you may want
to install a dehumidifier or use one of the odor/moisture “absorbers”
offered by various manufacturers. Turn any cushions up on edge so that
air can circulate around them, or better yet, remove them from the boat
for storage in a climate controlled area. Also remember to clean any bilges
and drain any existing water. Remove all drain plugs and put them in a
place where they’ll be easy to find when you’re ready to bring
your boat out of winter hibernation. Clean any bilges on your boat too,
and protect them with a coating of moisture displacing lubricant and a
little antifreeze.
Empty Your Head
If your boat
is equipped with a marine head, make sure you pump out the holding tank
at an approved facility prior to winter storage. Add fresh water to the
bowl and flush several times. Use a cleaner approved for your type of
system, and let the solution sit for a few minutes before adding more
fresh water and pumping it out again. Follow this process by adding antifreeze
(alcohol-based if this type of solution won’t damage the system)
and pump the coolant through the hoses, holding tank, Y-valve, macerator
and discharge hose.
Put it on the Block
If you own
a trailer boat, it’s a good idea to put the boat and trailer up on
a block for winter to take the pressure off the tires. You may even want
to remove the trailer tires to help discourage theft while the boat is
in long-term storage. Take the opportunity to inspect the trailer tires
for wear and tear. Also grease the wheel bearings, replacing them if necessary.
Go Undercover
Whether you’ll
be storing your boat outside, or inside a garage or structure, your craft
should be covered. If it will be outdoors and exposed to elements, you’ll
need a storage cover to protect the interior of the boat from the harsh
winter environment. Even if your boat will be kept in dry storage, a cover
of some kind is recommended to guard the interior against dirt, dust,
pests and bird droppings. For outdoor storage, a quality 8- to 10-ounce
cotton canvas boat cover is ideal. Make sure that the cover properly sized
and fitted for your particular boat model. It should also be supported
so water will run off the cover and not accumulate in pockets. If your
boat will be kept in dry storage for the winter, the waterproof quality
and strength of the cover will not be important factors. In this situation,
the main concern is keeping dust and other particulate matter from gathering
on your boat, so nearly any type of tarp or cover will get the job done.
A fitted cover is preferred however, because it will also keep mice, rats
and other undesirables from seeking refuge in your boat and damaging the
interior.
If conditions will
be extreme, you may want to consider “shrink-wrapping” your
boat instead of using a standard cover. Only a shrink-wrap cover provides
100 percent waterproof protection, is impossible to blow off, and can
withstand heavy loads of snow or rain. Shrink-wrapping your boat can be
a do it yourself job, but it requires proper tools, materials and instructions.
Complete shrink-wrap kits are available through BoatersWorld.com (Dr.
Shrink “Wrap-it-Up” Shrink-Wrap System).
Additional miscellaneous
winterization tasks:
- Inspect steering
systems, including tiller-steering friction fittings on outboards, and
tighten them if necessary.
- Grease all external
fittings on stern drives.
- Check bulbs and
electrical contacts on the plugs, as well as sockets where the bulbs
screw in. Use a moisture displacing lubricant to spray the contact points,
and wrap keep the plugs dry by wrapping them with electrical tape.
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